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吃在台湾02:艺奇——新日本料理

2012 May 5
by lowflying

吃在台湾02

 

文/赵琬仪

 

要体会19世纪末至20世纪中期,日本统治台湾五十年,文化影响有多深,只需要一顿饭的时间。

驻台的日本媒体朋友告诉我,台湾一般日本料理店的餐饮水准都相当好,不过在台湾吃的口味还是和家乡有很大的不同,毕竟异国料理离乡,难免受本土口味“同化”,以迎合主流市场。所以,在台湾吃日本料理,其实是品尝台式和风味。

近年台湾超人气的餐饮集团王品旗下便有多家日本料理品牌,“艺奇——新日本料理”是其中较具有特色的一家,且能让外国游客见识到贴心台式服务文化,这阵子新加坡朋友来台我都会推荐。

这家餐馆走新派华丽饮食风(价格却相对低调),用餐序参考了传统日本料理的节奏,赏心悦目的是在传统菜色中变出新风景,初次体验的客人都有惊艳感。

它最近换了新菜单,保留七式套餐餐序,小品、主餐、食事和甜品则新增新品菜肴。每道菜的分量适中,菜色丰富,绝对能满足胃口大,但食量小的食客。尤其是,七道菜,加特色饮料,收费一人680新台币(约30 元),另加10% 服务费,荷包也非常受用。

七式餐序分别为汤物(土瓶蒸);先付(前菜);刺身(生鱼片)或煮物(热食);小品(小菜);强肴(主餐);食事(有味饭);甘果物(甜品),最后是餐后饮料。每道餐序,除了汤物划一都是海鲜土瓶蒸,其余都有至少三项选择。

我第一次试新菜单,最满意是小品和主餐部分。小品点了樱花虾海鲜玉子蒸,温热的蒸蛋充满了樱花虾的细腻鲜味,入口即化,食材配搭即有台湾特色,也使这道属于日式大众口味的茶碗玉子蒸别具风味。

日本料理讲究“旬”(当季),更追求“鲜”味(岛国环境条件使然),所以日本料理花了许多心思在提升并保留食材原味,而最原始的方法莫过于现煮现吃了。主餐新品中岩烧石板合鸭或牛肉正是现煮现吃的菜肴。

切成薄片的樱花鸭肉摄氏300度的岩板微灸至八九分熟,即可食用。调味准备了玫瑰岩和特制酱料两种,个人偏爱较清爽口味,稍稍沾点玫瑰盐,热呼呼的鸭肉已美味十足。

完美的餐店需要一个完美的句号。饭后饮料,我多数会点石莲芦荟汁。石莲是台湾料理常见用作沙拉的食材,清脆爽口,加上芦荟汁,有助消化,更有益健康。

 

资料:

电话:886-2-2331-0200

地址:台北市衡阳路1号B1 (怀宁街口‧近228公园)

营业时间11:30~14:30 (最后点餐时间14:00)

17:30~22:00(最后点餐时间21:00)

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